It’s rare that a destination can bill itself as gay-friendly, uniquely historic, a protected nature reserve, and perfect for art connoisseurs, lobster lovers and anyone who fancies a browse by the seaside. But that’s just what makes Provincetown on the tip of Cape Cod the perfect day trip for anyone staying in Boston or on the peninsula.
The site of the Pilgrims’ first landing in America – they didn’t head to Plymouth and its rock for several weeks, as the locals are keen to remind you – it’s a small resort, all focused around Commercial street and the seafront, and closes down almost completely during the winter months.
But when the sun’s shining, it’s the perfect New England day out. Start by exploring the protected sand dunes along the ocean with Art’s Dune Tours, all wild cranberries, waving grasses and endless dunes. The fragile habitat means you can’t simply head off on your own, but taking a ride with Rob Costa who runs the tours, or any of the company’s guides, means you’ll get a brief taste of the area’s history as well as discovering the natural beauties.
Then climb the 252ft Pilgrim monument, attached to a small museum tracing the history of the area from the original settlers to the first European inhabitants and more recent times. The ferocious-looking Narwhal tusk is one of the stand-out exhibits, although it might not appeal to anyone who’s not a fan of taxidermy.
The granite monument itself isn’t too exhausting as the 116 steps are broken up by 60 gently sloping ramps, as well as carved names on the walls if you do need an excuse to catch your breath. Then enjoy the views out across the white clapboard houses to the boats in harbour and the fields inland, before heading back down.
But once you’ve ticked off a bit of history, devote the rest of your time to strolling along Commercial Street, which is crammed with souvenir shops, art galleries and a substantial number of boutiques selling pet paraphernalia. Stop to check out the vintage-style jewellery at Sparks – but don’t try to stroke the cat – and watching the colourful inhabitants who live, work and visit.
Then refuel with saltwater taffy, and a demonstration of how the sweet’s made, or homemade ice cream for around $4 at Lewis Brothers, before gorging on some of the freshest seafood in Massachusetts at the Lobster Pot.
Fast ferries run from Boston between May and October, with Bay State Cruises and Boston Harbour Cruises both taking around 90 minutes to reach Provincetown, or the Plymouth and Brockton bus line takes just over three hours from the city, via Hyannis.
